One night I received a mysterious call, I spoke Swahili, so far not understood, but I heard a magical and very special word for my: “Eunoto” then immediately knew who was calling me. It was a Masai that I met on my last safari when I visited the most authentic Masai to be found. Cerca de él lives a Maniata Ceremonial, this village 75 hamlets, circle was built especially for this event, and its inside diameter is more than 150 meters.
This ceremony, held every 8 the 10 years old, and in it the end of the stage of the current generation of warriors is celebrated. Faced with this event, change my plans for Christmas and instead of going to Zanzibar, I went to an area of difficult access in northern Tanzania.
To reach the destination traveled local bus one day and then 2 hours by motorcycle. In Africa these local buses never cease to amaze, more one thinks that has seen it all over them (from driving hens, goats and pigs until this is done sitting in front pee over her wet feet and your traveling companion; what a nest on tu vomit bag, (mine); cockroaches woken at night by walking on your face; but there are also positive things as they fix a mechanical problem with a cable or a clamp in the middle of the road will change to your bus engine; in a seat and a ticket with a lady traveling with her four children, this is what is called the African family, share everything and even me, normally the only “Mzungu” (white), me han dado, ever, a child to take you a few hours), but always comes something new and / or different, this time it was to overcome the above. I noticed that the bus it unto them with the latest rows of empty seats, but it would not be for long. When leaving the city the bus was diverted from its normal route and stopped when, you upload a 14 prisoners chained together. These prisoners were well guarded by 5 heavily armed guards with Kalashnikovs, A mi no me were doubts that if riot would take one hostage al Mzungu, the sea to mi.
Luckily the bus arrived at its destination without incident, just some technical hiccups, that were solved each 30 minutes by the 3 mechanical bus that carried on each trip.
A is the area where the “Eunoto” you should go with time, long because if rain would stay incommunicado.
Arriving at the huge pinioning, I found the “moran” (Warriors) singing and dancing, some were horned Kudu, usándolos like trumpets, other ostrich feathers and tails Wildebeest, and the bravest lions with manes on their heads. All were painted red or white, women with them were, sisters and mothers who joined singing and dancing at the party.
Despite what most people think, the Masai still hunt lions, but they make for special occasions and is one Eunoto. I did not think the Maasai currently hunted lions, but when I saw them come up with the lion's mane on the head and tail of feline feared that the tip of the spear, then my doubts were dispelled immediately. I told you to go cazarlos a group of 9 a 19 Warriors, cornered a lion who is alone and when it attempts to attack or escape, you are faced with their spears, the first warrior who thrusts his spear into the lion's body who gets her hair, the second gets hurt in the tail and the rest of the group usually return with some souvenirs like claws, whiskers, Nail, ears, etc..
The ceremony lasts Eunoto 6 days, the first day is the meeting, Warriors come from different areas and at numerous formations entering singing and dancing to pinioning, then come 2 red days, in them or red ocher skin predominates over Warriors, then follow him 2 White days, these are the most spectacular days as white on dark skinned warriors makes real and impressive photographically. The last day is when all Moran them cut their long hair and with this act, cease to be warriors and therefore already be married.
The second target was my favorite day, I get up very early, to 5 morning and went to the pinioning when the night still lurked. I met with the leaders of the warriors and with a dense fog began to walk toward the river before dawn, I went with the group of 29 elected, they who that day with the help of some older must bring a bull to sacrifice to the river. We were closely followed for more than 300 young warriors, the largest of which must have been about 24 years old. At the river they sacrificed the bull, all warriors and mzungu drank his blood and after cuerearlo, they roasted and ate, good, we ate.
After burying the remains of the bull, Warriors went down the river to be painted white and from there on a brisk walk and some runs we headed towards the town. On the river, my eyes could not believe what they saw, at times I felt like in a movie, to see all warriors painted white every part of your body, as their ancestors did when they painted for battle
That, for me, It was a magical moment, I felt the adrenaline through my body, my heart was racing, yo ni want to lose in a second, taking hundreds of pictures and filming various videos, capture what was what happened, and I felt privileged to be the only white to attend this ceremony.
Linger over 2 hours and return to pinioning just arrived for sunset. There, families anxiously awaited Warriors, to get, edges multiplied and did not stop until late at night.
The next morning, was the last and most significant act of this ceremony, Warriors were placed in front of the 75 cut their huts and their mane, this act, they all stopped being warriors and became adults.
Still echoing in my head is the most repeated song, in your language Masai said: “A cow and a wedding together” clear, They will be coming to a new stage in her life.
A mí, instead I was returning to civilization, which would not be easy. Since the rain had made the road impassable, I was stranded at 2 days in a small town, one of those towns that do not appear on any map. But when rain ceased, and the road dried, I could return to Arusha, and I could finally relax a few days to go to the island paradise of Zanzibar.
Javier Remon